Playa El Uverito, Panama

Life in Panama was a welcome change for two weary travelers looking for a little stability and if nothing else, some space and time to unpack and just figure out what could be next. We agreed to stay from two to six months, depending on a potential sale of the home. The owner of the home wanted to get to know us first and stay for the showing, before flying back to Vancouver. This did not seem like a problem, as it was a means to an end, although living in a house with an old, quirky, conspiracy theorist, possible racist, pot smoking hippy did not live up to the hype. Our responsibilities were to include caring for the three dogs and cats, general maintenance of the house when needed and standard upkeep. In exchange, we had a house across from the beach all to ourselves.

Each day started like many others do around the world and much like ours did while back in Canada. We rose with the sun, which often created spectacular vistas to gaze upon, while running, skipping, practicing yoga and meditating. Being at the ocean for this, surrounded by Pelicans and an expansive beach scape, makes you wonder how you will ever start a morning any other way. Our only real responsibility for the morning would be walking or running with the dogs on the beach and feeding the cats. The massive ocean tide swings dictated a lot of our activity, but also allowed us to live more in tune with and at times controlled by mother nature. The feeling of life, not screeching to a halt, but slowing down, coupled with a reduced sense of urgency for all matter of tasks, was greeted warmly and accepted. There were bouts of hard work and sweat filled afternoons, as we went above and beyond our outlined duties, in order to butter up the owner and build his trust, so that he would provide access to his truck (a necessity of living a secluded life some 30 minutes from little Las Tablas).

The first week in Panama was during Samana Santa, the Holy Week around Easter time and it is tradition for Panamanians to return to the places they were raised. This meant all the normally abandoned beach side properties, which at best were once dishevelled structures providing the most basic of shelter, were now filled with family reuniting and partying for an extended vacation. This normally quiet stretch of beach, called Playa El Uverito, in the province of Santo Domingo, was alive each day and night with music, dancing, fireworks and beers aplenty. One could have deduced all this after the fact with the evidence of all things consumed just thrown on the ground or literally over the shoulder onto the beach, creating piles in places. Not a totally shocking sight, but very disappointing to be witness to. With the holiday coming to an end, a few aggressive tide changes, the evidence of this week slipped into the ocean, only to be carried away and dumped on another beach. When recycling is not practiced and bottles and cans don’t come with a refund, they are left anywhere and everywhere.

The crowds had left, but our life on this beach continued. We got to know a few of the expats that had left the fast life of North America and Europe behind for more than a slower pace. Many were nice and few even exceptionally helpful and welcoming. You do however, in these small communities, find that gossip travels rapidly and things are never as they seem. The number of people placating each other and then talking behind their back is close to 100 percent. I’ve lived in situations like this before, so while not surprising, still perplexing. To us, this should be a supportive community of people all living and surviving with the same ups and downs. We quickly learned who to trust and who to rely on, but the list was rather short.

The incredible heat was a huge part of everyday and the lack of wind was more than problematic for doing anything without being drenched in sweat, including sleeping, until we bought a barely functioning fan in Las Tablas. We were beginning to find our rhythm and building routines. Life was starting to shape up and even allow us time to explore other interests and possible new pathways for our lives. This was the gift of Panama, the gift that working in Colombia for a year would not have allowed for. We have both been seeking an alternative direction in life, to meet our goals, while providing us the freedom and means to travel, explore and experience this world. Setting up in a housesitting role, although it would not provide any income, it was dramatically reducing the money flying from our wallets and giving us a sense of calm and time in the day to start taking some exiting new steps in this life together.

View more pictures of Playa El Uverito by clicking the Photography tab at the top of the page.